Here's my simple go-to sock pattern. I love classic socks because they're easy and mindless to knit, you don't need a whole bunch of fancy knitting tools and tons of different yarns and they're intuitive enough to knit in class while still paying attention. There are already tons of sock knitting patterns out there but this is how I like to knit them. I adapted most techniques from my mom, who taught me how to knit socks a couple years ago. I knit socks from the cuff down to the toe. I try them on while knitting to adjust the size of the foot. So don't worry about taking measurements of your feet!
Materials:
-
(5-)6 DPNs. For fingering weight, I use 2.5mm needles. For sport weight sock yarn I recommend 3mm needles.
- sock yarn. It's usually a mix of wool
(or other fancy fibers like bamboo etc.) and polyamide. The polyamide makes them more durable. Make sure the yarn is washable!
- scissors and a tapestry needle
- a project bag so you take your knitting with you
The cuff:
Using the long tail cast on, CO 56 stitches using fingering weight yarn
(52 for sport weight).
Warning: this pattern is written for fingering weight yarn and 56 stitches. You have to do some math to adapt the pattern to a different yarn weight or number of stitches. If you have really big feet consider casting on 60 stitches. Divide stitches evenly onto 3 or 4 needles, as you desire. I like 20, 16, 20 stitches so I get to start with k2 at the beginning of each needle.
Join in the round. You don't need a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round since you have the tail that indicates the beginning. K2, p2 around for 2" / 5cm if you wanna change to a different color after the cuff. After you've changes the color, continue knitting until the leg has the desired length. If you don't change the color simply keep knitting k2, p2 until the leg has the desired length. I usually knit 6-7 inches before I start knitting the heel.
The heel:
This is the scariest part of knitting socks but it's really easy, I promise.
Start by dividing your stitches evenly onto 4 needles if you only used three before. You should end up having 14 stitches on each needle. Change color if desired. At the beginning of the next row, k14, then turn around and slip 1, p27 and keep all 28 stitches on one needle. Make sure you slip the first stitch of each row to get a smooth edge. Continue in stockinette stitch until your heel flap has the desired length. I usually knit about 1.5"/4cm before I knit turn the heel.
Next up is the heel turn.
You're now about to knit short rows. They are very easy once you get used to having unworked stitches on your needles.
Starting on a wrong side, knit the following repeat:
row 1: sl 1, purl 18, p2tog, turn.
row 2: k11, k2tog, turn.
row 3: p11, p2tog, turn.
repeat rows 2 & 3 until you only have no more unworked stitches on your needles. You should have 12 stitches left. If you end up on a wrong row, knit the next row.
The gusset:
Using a new needle, pick up stitches along the edge of the heel flap. I recommend picking up about 12 stitches to get a nice gusset. If you have a high span, pick up more stitches. If you have a low instep or don't want a visible gusset, pick up fewer stitches
(but at least 8!). Now you should have two needles with 14 stitches on each in front of you. Knit across all 28 stitches but leave them on two separate needles. Using another needle, pick up the same amount of stitches as you just did and still using the same needle, k6 from the next needle.
Next row: k6 stitches from the first needle with the picked up stitches across the left heel flap onto one needle. Knit all stitches. You should have all your stitches onto 4 needles now as following:
1st needle: 6 stitches + ___ new stitches
2nd needle: 14 stitches
3rd needle: 14 stitches
4th needle: 6 stitches + ___ new stitches
Knit two rows
Decrease row: Knit until three stitches remain on the first needle, k2tog, k1; k14 from 2nd needle; knit 14 from 3rd needle; k1, ssk, knit remaining stitches of 4th needle.
knit 3-4 rows
knit a decrease row
Continue until you have 14 stitches on each needle.
The foot:
Yay, you made it through the hard part! Now knit across until your sock has the desired length. Try them on to make sure they fit. The toe will add another inch or so. Depending on the anatomy of your feet, adjust the length of the foot. If you're one inch from your longest toe, start working the toe.
The toe:
If you'd like to change the color, do it now. I like to decrease 2 stitches on each side, making a total of 4 decreases for each decrease row. If you're uncomfortable with ssk, you can replace it by k2tog but your toe will get a slightly different look. If you'd like a longer toe, simple add another knit row.
row 1: k11, k2tog, k2, ssk, k22, k2tog, k2, ssk, k11. (52 stitches / 13 on each needle)
row 2: knit all stitches
Repeat rows 1 & 2 until you have 8 stitches left on each needle.
Now repeat row 1 until you only have 2 stitches on each needle. Cut yarn, pull through all remaining stitches and weave in ends.
This is what the toe will look like from the top:
YAY, you made it! It wasn't all that complicated, was it? Now you can get started on your second sock.
